Barron Heating AC Electrical & Plumbing Blog: Archive for the ‘Energy Savings’ Category

The Importance of Air Sealing Attic Penetrations

Wednesday, April 30th, 2014
Can light sealing by CAZ Energy Services. Photo: Hunter Hassig

Many times when homeowners are looking at home improvement solutions for cold spots or high energy bills they think insulation. While insulating your attic and crawl space sub-floor up to code standards is very important for whole home comfort and energy efficiency it is insufficient on its own. This is because in almost every home there are numerous holes in the ceilings that allow air to move freely between your attic space and the conditioned living space of your home. Insulation is a thermal barrier NOT an air barrier. To further illustrate this think of insulation as a sweatshirt. It will keep you warm on a calm day but on a windy one you will need a wind breaker or rain jacket to stay comfortable. Air sealing those holes in your ceiling that lead to the attic creates a consistent, level air barrier that acts as a wind breaker for your home.

Where exactly are these holes? According to The Homeowners’ and Trades Resource Center the three most common areas are wiring penetrations, plumbing penetrations and where your drywall meets up with the framing. Some other trouble areas include soffits, dropped ceilings, chases, vents, exhausts, bath fans, recessed lighting (ie. can lights), and ductwork in your attic. In order to seal small holes like those around bath fans, use silicone caulk or expandable foam. To seal bigger gaps like those found in dropped ceilings and soffits, use rigid foam or drywall (depending on local code) to bring that area to the same level as the rest of the attic and then seal around it with foam or caulk. Sealing these holes will not only save you money on your utility bills but will lead to a more even temperature in the house and many times improve indoor air quality as well.

Some content from: http://blog.sls-construction.com/2011/air-sealing-attic-penetrations

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Light Bulb Buying Guide

Friday, March 14th, 2014

Before energy saving light bulbs were so readily available, we would purchase light bulbs based on how many watts or how much energy they used. With newer light bulbs you can achieve the same level of brightness for while using up to 80% less power. When shopping for bulbs today, look for lumens not watts. Light bulbs usually include a label on the packaging.

On the ‘Lighting Facts’ you will see how many lumens (the measure of brightness), the estimated yearly cost of energy to use this light bulb, the lifespan, and the color tint of the bulb. Warm is a yellowish color, while cool is more blue. You can see that in this example only 13 watts of energy are used, however, if you are used to using 60 watt bulb then this 800 lumens will provide the same amount of light using only 21.7% as much energy.

For more information on buying the right kind of bulb, or lumens-to-watts conversion, check out this informational video.

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Heating Your Home with Radiant Heat

Tuesday, December 17th, 2013


Wouldn’t it be nice if you could somehow have even heat spread out across your home, instead of heat coming out of a vent? There is a way to accomplish this goal, and it is called radiant floor heating. You may have heard of this type of heating but known little about how it works or how it could be of benefit to you. However, this method is gaining in popularity rather quickly.

So what is radiant floor heating? Described in its simplest form, radiant floor heating allows heat to be distributed directly to the floor of a home. This means that heat literally comes up from under the floor in an even fashion. Of course, this is in stark contrast to other heating methods, which may force heat out of vents at different points throughout your home. Homeowners who dislike the uneven nature of heated air flowing from vents will most definitely be intrigued by what radiant floor heating can accomplish. There are three types of radiant heat for floors, which include radiant air floors, electric radiant floors and hot water radiant floors. [1]

A common way for radiant floor heating to work is through piping placed under the floor. This piping brings the heat directly to the rooms and areas where it is needed. The end result is quite surprising for those who have never experienced it before, as the heat provided is far more even than other alternatives.
Not only do most people find radiant floor heating to be more comfortable, but it is also generally seen as a serious energy saver too. [2] Radiant floor heating is more efficient, in part, because heated air is not sent through air ducts. [3] Air ducts represent a major loss of energy efficiency and radiant floor heating bypasses this problem altogether. The end result will be a more efficient home and lower energy bills.

Another significant benefit to radiant floor heating is that the heating system is essentially out of sight and out of the way. This makes it a great option for homeowners who are looking for a clean look.

Adding to the cost benefits of radiant floor heating is the fact that the equipment lasts for a long time and is quite durable. Moreover, radiant floor heating can be integrated into existing systems as well, meaning that you don’t necessarily have to buy a new heating and cooling system.

Experts look on radiant floor heating favorable due to its energy efficiency, but many also feel that it also has some safety benefits as well. Radiant floor heating can contribute to helping wet floors dry faster since the heat is reaching the floors directly. This is something that other forms of heating just can’t accomplish.

If you are looking to get even more out of your heating dollar, it also is important to make sure that you have installed the proper home insulation. ENERGY STAR estimates that up to 20% of heating cost can be saved by adding sealing and insulation.

There are many, diverse benefits to radiant floor heating and, as a result, it is no real surprise that this type of heating is getting more attention. Those looking to make the most out of their energy dollars will want to explore this interesting option that is full of benefits.

Sources

  1. http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/space_heating_cooling/index.cfm/mytopic=12590
  2. http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,1548320,00.html
  3. http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/space_heating_cooling/index.cfm/mytopic=12590

Content Courtesy of WellHome.com

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Custom Energy Efficiency Report For Your Home

Friday, December 13th, 2013

At EnergySavvy.com  you can take a free, short survey to help identify ways to save money in your home. The questions inquire about the types and frequency of energy used, kinds of appliance in your home, and the type of unit you live in – all things that you know!

There are only 5 short pages of questions to answer, then you can view your results and have them emailed to you. In the results you will see how energy efficient you are being as compared to your neighbors with similar homes. You will also see a percentage of Potential Savings. These savings are possible if you follow the provided Customized Action Plan. This plan takes into consideration what is causing your home to be less efficient.

The last thing they provide is average statistics for your area. Here you will find the typical energy prices & how efficient people in your area typically are.

Whether you are just curious about how your home stacks up in energy efficiency, or you genuinely want to make changes in your home to save money and improve your life this is a wonderful and free resource that everyone should take advantage of.

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Fixing Your Duct System Makes “Cents”

Wednesday, October 9th, 2013

In this article we are going to be discussing the EFFICIENCY MATH of purchasing a furnace and how duct sealing plays into your decisions.

Many customers start with the goal of “increasing their efficiency”, however, what they should be focusing on is “decreasing energy use”. In a lot of ways this is similar to the Government cutting spending or increasing taxes. For example, if there is a budget that needs to be met, they can either cut spending or increase taxes to meet it. Saving energy is like this in that if we need to lower your energy use we can either cut waste or increase efficiency.

The real kicker is that not one of us would buy a hybrid car and then run it on half inflated tires, but thousands of consumers make a similar decision every day when buying a heating system. Time and time again, they are told to increase the equipment efficiency without regard to whether the duct system is diminishing the total system efficiency through leaks to the outside.

It is a matter of simple math that no one ever explains, which scenario from below would you pick?

80% Furnace with Aeroseal Duct Sealing (Approx Cost $3500)

  • ($1.00 Given to Furnace) x (Furnace Efficiency of 80%)
    = $0.80 Delivered to Ducting
  • ($0.80 Delivered to Ducting) x (3% Duct Leakage After Aerosealing)
    = $0.776 Delivered Into the Home (Not bad…)

95% Furnace without Duct Sealing (Approx Cost $3500)

  • ($1.00 Given to Furnace) x (Furnace Efficiency of 95%)
    = $0.95 Delivered to Ducting
  • ($0.95 Delivered to Ducting) x (33% Average Duct Leakage)
    = $0.627 Delivered Into the Home (Ugh, that’s horrible.)

95% Furnace with Aeroseal Duct Sealing (Approx Cost $5000)

  • ($1.00 Given to Furnace) x (Furnace Efficiency of 95%)
    = $0.95 Delivered to Ducting
  • ($0.95 Delivered to Ducting) x (3% Duct Leakage After Aerosealing)
    = $0.922 Delivered Into the Home (Winning!)

The Moral of the story? It is important to buy the right things for the right reasons.

Posted by Wes Diskin

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What You Gain From An Energy Audit

Friday, October 4th, 2013


With qualified and experienced inspectors an energy audit will pinpoint the cause of many problems that lead to an uncomfortable home. Whether its uneven temperatures, bad air quality, or dust problems it is important to look at the home as a system to find the appropriate solution.

There are many important areas to test and analyze for an effective audit on home performance.

  • First is an informative meeting with you, the home owner. There is nobody who knows the experience of living in your home better than you. The inspector should know when and where you experience discomfort throughout your home. Take note of the air quality, consistency of heating, odors, and anything else that you would like to change.
  • Next comes an analysis of your utility bill. Seeing where you have been spending money on energy in the past and present gives you a basis of comparison for future savings and the return on your HVAC investments.
  • The testing begins with a Blower door test. This will help to locate air leakage pathways. Included in this is duct leakage (and repair if necessary). Studies indicate that duct leakage can account for as much as 25% of total house energy loss.
  • By using Infrared Thermography, the most sophisticated analytic tool in energy auditing, wall cavity and ceiling insulation and moisture related issues in your walls can be seen.
  • Moisture Analysis is an often overlooked, but very important step in monitoring the health and durability of you and your home.
  • Its important to analyze flue gas at the hot water heater and other fossil fuel appliances. Combustion Analysis and combustion safety are one of the main focal points in the energy audit and homeowners are often unaware that they have problems with their combustion equipment.
  • The last thing is to look into Weatherization Services. Your energy audit should offer a comprehensive report that will outline the most cost effective path for weatherization work.

Energy audits range in price from $100 up to over $1000. When finding the right provider for this service make sure they offer all of the necessary tests and have the experience and expertise to get you the answers you need.

If you’re interested in an energy audit learn about Barron Heating’s $195 Home & Duct Performance Assessment.

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Ductless Exposed: The 8 Types of Ductless Systems

Wednesday, September 4th, 2013

NOTE: this article assumes you know what a ductless heat pump is, if you need some pre-education, click here. You can also visit my YouTube Channel for walkthrus on installed systems!

  1. Single Zone Basic (i.e: Lennox MS8)
  2. Single Zone Feature Rich (i.e.: Daikin L Series)
  3. Single Zone Specialty (i.e.: Fujitsu RLS2)
  4. 2-4 Zone Basic (i.e.: Lennox MS8 Multi)
  5. 2-4 Zone Feature Rich (i.e. Daikin MXS)
  6. 2-6/8 Zone Flex (i.e. Fujitsu HFI, Daikin RMXS Super Multi)
  7. 2-8 Zone VRV(F) (i.e Daikin VRV3-S)
  8. Radiant Heating w/ Domestic Water Heating (i.e. Daikin Altherma)

The reason why I am writing this is pretty much the same as all my other posts; too often contractors offer you a ductless system without telling you what other options are available. So, in light of this, I am going to help you understand the 8 ductless residential systems that I have listed above. Settle in, because this is going to take a few minutes!

Each of the eight has it’s own special place in this world, so let’s break them down so you can figure out what will work best in your application.

Single Zone Basic

This system is entry level ductless. You still get all the efficiency and “ductless” benefits, but usually warranty and features (like programming, etc.) are limited. If you hate your TV remote and technology in general, then this is the ductless for you! ON/OFF – HEAT/COOL. That’s it.

Single Zone Feature Rich

IF you want ductless AND you want the highest level of control, satisfaction and warranty, then a feature rich system suites you well. Things like 3D Airflow, programming, wi-fi, motion sensing, etc., etc. come built in!

Single Zone Specialty

There are 3 types of ductless buyers; those who want just efficiency (Basic), those who want efficiency and comfort (Feature Rich) and those who are disgusted by the idea of a ductless head on their wall….Specialty!!

If you are in this category  you want ductless, but dread it at the same time. The specialty system, like the Fujitsu RLS2, might be for you. Still a feature rich system, but in slick packaging! The one drawback is that the sizing is limited so I would say you are going to get up to 1200 sq ft depending on how well the house was built.

Did I mention that these are also the most efficient ductless on the market? Clocking in at 12 HSPF+, they are very much an option to consider.

2-4 Zone Basic

Remember, a multi-zone system is just one outdoor unit and multiple indoor units. Most 2-4 Zone Basic buyers are just folks who fall into the “basic” category but have a house or specific need that warrants a 2nd, 3rd or 4th head; say, the Master Bedroom needs its own cooling or the basement/upstairs needs a head for heating/cooling. Maybe the 4th head goes in the Bonus Room?

Here is a video to help.

2-4 Zone Feature Rich

Replace “basic” with “feature rich” in the paragraph above. Sorry…I’m lazy.

2-6/8 Zone Flex

This is where things start to get a little different so pay close attention. When you go to my pictures, etc. and look at ductless; do you see how each head has a line that runs from it all the way back to the heat pump? This is how the standard multi zone systems work, if you have 4 heads you have 4 lines. Now, with a Flex system 2 of those run into 1 and the other 2 run into 1 (this is called a branch), then you have only 2 lines that have to run all the way back to the Heat Pump (HP) outside. This is one difference about the Flex. The other is that the HP is a larger 4 Ton and will allow you to, say, have just 2 large 24k heads on it or all the way up to 6 smaller heads.

Another difference is that while a standard 2-4 Zone Ductless has individual control points for each head (remotes/thermostats), the Flex can be operated from a SINGLE control. This allows for better management of a full home system.

Fujitsu’s HFI System falls somewhere in between Basic and Feature Rich, but when Daikin releases the RMXS Super Multi, I have a feeling it is going to be mind-blowing, word is that it will hit 11.3 HSPF on up to 8 heads. I want it NOW!…. tantrum. 🙂

2-8 Zone VRV(F) Light Commercial

Further up and further in! This is getting a bit obscure, but it IS an option. Okay, think of the flex, but those 2 lines that came back to the Heat Pump outside go into 1 and just 1 line goes out to the HP. This is possible because the metering of refrigerant is no longer done at the HP it is done at the indoor.

Again, we do install these, but here is an application. Million Dollar Home. Everything hidden, zoned, perfect and integrated into building management software for commercial buildings…. but its a house. You see where I am going?

Radiant Heating w/ Domestic Water Heating, Cooling and Solar

That guy is obviously European!  This system has been booming in Europe for a while and is now starting to destroy Geothermal here in the northwest. Hands down, this is the system that is the one to beat in custom construction right now. Radiant Heat with Inverter Heat Pump, Cooling to Fan Coil or Head, Domestic Hot Water with Solar Optional. Man oh Man. SUMMARY: IF YOU ARE BUILDING A HOME WITH RADIANT HEATING, YOU HAVE TO ASK ABOUT THIS SYSTEM! Watch video (it starts over at about 6:20…crazy Euros). Sorry, this one just does too much stuff to describe in text.

Posted by Wes Diskin

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Introduction to AeroSeal and Duct Repair

Wednesday, June 12th, 2013

Why are finding Air Duct Leaks important?

You can see a water leak, but an air leak is invisible. Duct leaks can be difficult and costly to find with ductwork hidden between the walls, floors, and ceilings of any residential home or commercial building. The older, traditional use of mastic (a messy caulk-like substance) or taping of leaks not only is less effective than Aeroseal, but also can be very labor-intensive and expensive and can only be applied to ducts with physical access. Other substances break down over time, but the Aeroseal sealant does not and even has a 10 year WARRANTY to back it up.

Do-it-yourselfers might attempt their own fixes, but what about those ducts you or your HVAC specialist can’t see or access? Let Aeroseal handle the entire job and you won’t be tearing up your home or worried about incomplete seals. Aeroseal pinpoints and covers leaks, in roughly an hour, from the inside out with a success rate of up to 98%. Aeroseal is the most effective, affordable, and viable method of sealing air duct leaks on the market.

The measured result of a typical Aeroseal air duct sealing process is shown below:

  • Aeroseal can reduce duct leakage by up to 97%, reduce your energy use by up to 45%.
  • Aeroseal has also been shown to dramatically improve comfort and homeowner satisfaction with their heating and cooling systems.
  • Leaky ducts in a residential home contribute to:
  • Loss of cool and warm conditioned air to the outside or unconditioned spaces of your home resulting in high energy bills
  • Even the most energy-efficient heating and cooling systems not performing at its best
  • Forcing your system to work harder and wear out sooner, costing you yet more money
  • Excess humidity levels that can lead to costly home repairs
  • Hard to heat or cool rooms leading to discomfort
  • Musty odors and other indoor air quality (IAQ) issues

What are the benefits?

  • Airtight savings: The money formerly leaking out of your ducts will stay in your pocket longer
  • Airtight comfort: Your hard to heat or cool rooms will have more even temperatures and be more comfortable
  • Improved air quality: You will see a reduction in dust and humidity, along with fumes and other odors
  • Reaches everywhere: Seals leaks nearly impossible to reach using other methods
  • You’ll be a small part of a bigger solution: A reduction of the amount of air pollution created from generating less energySolve your building air flow and ventilation problems

Posted by Wes Diskin

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Ductless Heat Pumps – Questions…Answered.

Tuesday, April 2nd, 2013

Q: What is a ductless heating and cooling system?

A ductless heating and cooling system is a highly efficient zonal heating and cooling system that does not require the use of air ducts. Ductless systems consist of an outdoor compressor unit and one or more indoor air-handling units, called “heads”, linked by a dedicated refrigerant line. Indoor heads are typically mounted high on a wall or ceiling covering a 3” hole where the refrigerant line passes through from the outside unit, which is mounted at the base of the house. Each indoor head corresponds with a heating and cooling zone that can be controlled independently.

Q: Do I still need my old heaters?

While a ductless system can be used as a primary heat source, homeowners are encouraged to keep their existing electric heating units as a supplement the Ductless system in case of extreme weather conditions or in hard to reach extremities of the home.

Q: How does a ductless system work?

Ductless systems are reversible, 2-way heat pumps that use electricity to transfer heat between outdoor and indoor air by compressing and expanding refrigerant. Using a refrigerant vapor compression cycle, like a common household refrigerator, ductless systems collect heat from outside the house and deliver it inside on the heating cycle, and vice versa on the cooling cycle. Ductless systems use variable speed compressors with “inverter technology” (AC to DC) in order to continuously match the heating/cooling load, avoiding the on/off cycling of conventional electric resistance and central heating systems that is commonly associated with uncomfortable temperature variations and high energy consumption.

Ductless Systems consist of several parts:

  • An outdoor unit that contains a condensing coil, an inverter-driven variable speed compressor, an expansion valve and a fan to cool the condenser coil.
  • An indoor unit that contains an evaporator and a quiet oscillating fan to distribute air into throughout the heating zone.
  • A refrigerant line-set that is made of insulated copper tubing and is housed in a conduit alongside a power cable, and a condensation drain.
  • A remote control that can be used to set the desired temperature and program in night-time settings.

Q: How is the system controlled?

The system is controlled via remote control that changes temperature as well as mode of operation. Wall mounted controls are also available.

Q: What are appropriate applications for a ductless system?

  • Replacing an existing zonal heating system – Ductless systems are ideal for replacing or supplementing inefficient electric baseboard, wall or ceiling units, woodstoves and other space heaters such as propane or kerosene. A cost effective electric heat conversion in a small house might consist of single system serving the main area of the house, while leaving existing electric baseboards in bedrooms and bathrooms.
  • Room additions – A ductless system can also be implemented when a room is added onto a house or an attic is converted to living space. Rather than extending the home’s existing ductwork or pipes, or adding electric resistance heaters, the ductless sytem can provide efficient heating and cooling.
  • New construction – New home designs can be adapted to take advantage of a ductless system’s many benefits. One or more systems might be installed in various “zones” of the house to simplify installation and minimize refrigerant line length.

Q: Are ductless systems efficient?

Yes! Ductless systems operate using 50% to 75% less energy than electric resistance and forced air systems. Three key factors account for the high efficiency of a ductless system:

  1. Ductless systems allow the user to control each heating/cooling zone independently, eliminating the costly over-heating and cooling common to central air systems. Why pay to heat or cool rooms that are not currently occupied?
  2. While central air systems lose as much as 30% efficiency through air leaks and conduction in the ductwork, ductless systems distribute air directly to each zone, resulting in 25% greater efficiency. Ductless systems use inverter-driven, variable speed compressors that allow the system to maintain constant indoor temperatures by running continuously at higher or lower speeds. Thus, the system can ramp-up or down without great losses in operating efficiency, avoiding the energy intensive on/off cycling common in electric resistance and forced air systems.
  3. Modern ductless systems have ultra-high Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratios (SEER) between 16 and 22, and Heating Seasonal Performance Factors (HSPF) between 8.5 and 12.

Q: How long have ductless systems been around?

Ductless heating and cooling systems were developed in Japan in the 1970’s and have since become a preferred heating and cooling system throughout Asia and much of Europe. In the United States ductless systems have been used in commercial applications for over 20 years.

Q: How much does a ductless system cost?

The average cost of an installed ductless systems with a single indoor heating/cooling zone is between $3,000 and $5,000. Additional heating zones and greater heating capacities will increase the cost of the system. Other factors that will affect the cost of an installed system include manufacturer and model, refrigerant line-set length, difficulty of installation, and contractor rates.

Q: What incentives are available for ductless systems?

  • Utility Rebates: most utilities in the Northwest are offering their customers cash rebates as high as $1,500 when they upgrade their existing electric resistance heating system to a ductless system. Interest-free financing may also be available. Check with your local utility for details.
  • Federal Tax Credits – Additional Incentives: Federal Tax Credits: tax credits for Consumer Energy Efficiency may be available to taxpayers who purchase a qualified energy-efficient residential ductless systems.

Q: How long will a ductless system last?

With proper maintenance and care a ductless systems should perform for over 20 years. Many of the systems installed during the 1980’s are still functioning well today.

Q: What kind of maintenance does a ductless system require?

Ductless systems require basic maintenance to ensure optimum performance. In most cases maintenance is limited to keeping filters and coils clean. These tasks can easily be performed by the home owner.

Q: How do I know what sized system my house needs?

Ductless systems are sized to meet the heating and cooling needs of a home’s individual zones. There is a great deal of flexibility when it comes to system sizing as one indoor unit can provide between ¾ and 2 ½ tons of heating/cooling depending on its BTU capacity rating. Some common capacities for indoor units are 9k, 12k, 18k, 24k, and 30k BTU. Outdoor units are sized to meet the combined load of all heating/cooling zones. More than one outdoor unit may be necessary for multi-zone systems.

Posted by Wes Diskin

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10 Buying Mistakes to Stay Away From – Helpful Hints for New Equipment

Thursday, February 28th, 2013

Every year millions of homeowners buy a new HVAC system for their home. Whether for heating, cooling or air quality, they make a huge investment in a new system that will be with them for years to come. Unfortunately, many of those people make big mistakes when buying their next system, so to help you avoid doing so, here are some simple things you should not do.

Ignoring Air Quality – Air quality is about more than comfort. It affects the health of everyone in your home equally. Consider it carefully when installing a new system.

Avoiding Even Heating and Cooling – One room being cooler or warmer than another is not okay. It’s bad for your system and bad for your home’s comfort level. Have insulation and ductwork checked before installation of a new HVAC system.

Not Upgrading Your AFUE or SEER – New systems are highly efficient. Take advantage of that by buying one with a higher AFUE or SEER rating.

Not Vetting Your Contractor – Always spend time checking up on your contractor, reading reviews and asking other customers how their experience was.

Skipping the Service Agreement – Service agreements save money and help your system last longer. Don’t skip them.

Buying the Cheapest Option Available – It may be tempting, but a cheap HVAC system is a bad idea if you want it to last and save you money in heating and cooling. Even a midrange system will save you money in only a few years with higher efficiency ratings.

Picking the Same Model You Already Had – New models are stronger and more efficient. When possible, get an upgrade and your bills will reflect the difference.

Waiting too Long to Buy – The longer you wait, the more you pay in heating and cooling bills for an old, worn down system. If you know you’re going to buy a new system, act fast to save the most possible money.

Not Asking Questions – If you have a question, ask it. There is no such thing as a stupid question when looking for a new HVAC system.

Ignoring Maintenance Recommendations – Maintenance recommendations are optional but almost always to your benefit. Research on your own before committing to anything, but don’t ignore the necessity either.

If you do things just right, your new HVAC system will last for years to come and provide steady, comfortable heating or cooling throughout that time. But, if you rush through things, make a hasty decision and neglect to do any research, you may have issues with your system in far less time than you’d like. Be smart and you’ll be rewarded.

Posted by Wes Diskin

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